Chico’s Tacos or Bust

by Julie M.
(El Paso, Texas)

Chico's Tacos: An El Paso Staple

My first impression of the place was that the decor probably hadn’t been changed in over twenty years or so, and as it turned out, I was correct in my assumption. The bright orange and yellow tables and benches bolted to the floor screamed of the seventies as did the prices on the outdated letter board behind the counter (no paper menus here). Finding a meal in the nineties for under four bucks was a miracle, and thrilled me to no end. After all, I was a fifteen year old kid whose allowance equaled a whopping five bucks a week.

Standing in a long line with my equally poor friends, I had time to take in the ambiance and really study the people in the joint. It was strange that no one seemed to mind our eclectic group. No one was staring or snickering behind cupped palms. Everyone seemed to be engrossed in their own meal, enjoying tacos or burgers with crinkle fries in plaid paper boats. It seemed like just my kind of place, plastic utensils and all.

The long line moved much more quickly that I had thought it would, and I soon found myself at the counter placing my order (with much direction from my friends) for two single orders of “tacos” and a small coke. I really had no idea what I was in for, although I had previously been warned by everyone in my family, except my father, to give this place a wide berth. When you’re fifteen though, friends give most of the advice that you actually listen to.

I shelled out four bucks for my meal and was ecstatic to receive almost ninety cents in change!

“This calls for some music,” thought I--something to drown out the bleeping and booping of the ancient Pac-Man and Galactica video games that served as entertainment for the kids. I strolled to the front of the place where an equally ancient juke box was sitting, quietly flashing its lights. I looked for the price, thinking I could get maybe three songs for my change, not ready for the shock that I could get three songs for one quarter! My shock and amazement abated somewhat as I carefully perused the selection, realizing that my choices were almost any kind of Mexican music, from mariachi to pop, and eighties hair band metal.

“So Iron Maiden and Vicente Fernandez it is,” I thought, "just to annoy my friends."

Walking back to the couple of tables we were occupying, my first selection began to not so much play, but bludgeon the air with its over modulated and excruciating volume. I flinched, squinting through the noise, positive that someone would soon get up and complain, but the elderly women and rancheros that surrounded us seemed not at all disturbed in the least. Through the squealing guitar and high pitched whine of the lead singer advising anyone listening to “Run to the Hills”, I heard my number being called and obediently went to the pick up counter to retrieve my red plastic tray of goodies.

I sat down and inspected the feast on my tray. What looked like flautas floating in a watery red sauce and absolutely buried in finely shredded cheese were sitting in the trademark paper boats. I wasn’t really sure how to proceed, but I was famished and began to dig in. “Naw, man, you gotta let it sit for a minute to let the cheese melt, but not too long, or the tacos will get mushy” advised my buddy.

I still heed this valuable advice to this day, whenever I get a hankering for Chico’s.

I spent eight years in San Antonio and never came across anything remotely similar. They’re addictive, these rolled tacos that you can only find in El Paso. So much so that anytime my visiting mother asked what she could bring me from El Paso, my reply was always the same- Chico’s Tacos! Many orders were carted across the open land between here and San Antonio, sauce and cheese separate please (no mushy tacos here).

Now that I am back home it is amazing to know that in eight years the cost of a single order has only gone up forty-two cents, and that Chico’s has actually expanded, adding new restaurants on the east side. They even sell Chico’s Tacos T-shirts! It’s good to know that some things don’t change, and that the unique ambiance and food at this El Paso staple is still enjoyed by the patrons who frequent this establishment. And I am still one of them.